How to Make a Shawl Collar Cardigan Look Stylish, Timeless & Cool

A lot of guys face a dilemma when stepping up their style games during colder months:

When Daniel Craig, Brad Pitt or Steve McQueen wear a shawl collar cardigan sweater, they look like they could beat you up and steal your girlfriend at a moment’s notice.

But when mere mortals throw one on, we look more like a bookish arts professor at a third-tier community college.

So what gives? And more importantly: how can men who aren’t playing high stakes poker at Casino Royale or searching for a Quantum of Solace make a shawl collar cardigan look good?

Below I’ll break down the rules for anyone who wants to add a chunky knit sweater to their wardrobe, and suggested a few different ways to become a handsome-ass member of the S-Triple-C.

(That’s the Shawl Collar Cardigan Club, for the unititated. We’re still workshopping the name…)

Part 1: The Rules

1. How to Nail The Fit

Keep it (Relatively) Slim

This one comes with a slight caveat: keep it as slim as you can.

Shawl collars are often made of thicker types of wool that are comfortable as hell, but not always the most form-fitting.

That’s why it’s even more important to make sure that yours fits you like a glove and hugs your shoulders, arms and torso fairly tightly.

Because of the thicker fabrics, the shawl collar sweater may not show off your physique the way a merino wool sweater would.

But if you pick a size that’s slightly too large, you’ll look more like you’re wearing a housecoat than a classic piece of menswear.

Speaking of which…

2. Choose The Right Length

Not much lower than your waist

👍
Pretty Good ↓

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A Little Long, Yet So Wrong ↓

Another easy way to look like you’re wearing a robe is if you opt for a sweater that’s too long.

Some shawl collar cardigans are actually designed this way and some – for reasons that boggle the mind – actually come with a cotton belt!

You are not a jedi knight, and these are not the sweaters you’re looking for.

Instead, look for one that hits either right at or just below your belt line, which is pretty much how you want all of your sweaters to fit.

3. Don’t Be Too Buttoned Up

The rules are a little looser when it comes to how many of your sweater’s buttons you should do up.

If you’re going for a more casual look, you can leave either the top button or the bottom one undone.

You can also leave the whole thing undone for a look that’s much more casual and laid back, but still sophisticated thanks to the shawl collar’s classic appeal.

But if you’re wearing a tie and/or going for a more formal or dressier look (more on that below), I suggest doing up all the buttons for a look that’s more… well, buttoned up.

One last note on buttons:

It’s ok to leave the top or bottom one undone, but I don’t suggest leaving both undone.

It might look like your sweater is too small to wrap around your waist, which is probably not an implication you want to give.

4. Pair it with the Right Pants

Go for a different color (or at the very least, different shade) than the sweater

This is a good rule of thumb for sweaters in general, but especially for shawl collars.

Even if your sweater fits perfectly, if your pants are the same color or anything close, you won’t look like a stylish man rocking a classic look.

👎
Too Blue ↓

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Good Contrast ↓

You’ll look like a 1970s ski bum wearing a onesie.

Make sure your pants contrast both your sweater and the undershirt you’re rocking beneath it.

Jeans are usually a safe and stylish bet with shawl collars (unless your sweater is too similar a shade of blue), as are khakis.

Part 2: Layering

What do you wear under a shawl collar cardigan?

A T-shirt or Henley

One of the most classic casual looks in all of menswear, layering your shawl collar over a t-shirt or henley looks stylish in almost any setting.

A few things to keep in mind though:

First, make sure your undershirt is a different color (or at least a different shade) than your sweater.

You want to make sure people can visually distinguish between the two easily.

Secondly, try to keep the fabrics in the same ball park.

Since shawl collars are generally made from hearty wool, you don’t want to wear a shiny or synthetic shirt underneath.

The best bet is to stick with something cotton.

A Collared Shirt

Throwing on a collared shirt underneath your shawl collar opens up a few more options for you, including the option to add a tie into the mix for a look that’s more formal or business-like.

With that said, if you decide to opt for a tie, I only recommend knotting it all the way up if you’re wearing a proper dress shirt. 

But if you want to wear a tie in a way that’s a little more casual and laid back, opt for a denim shirt or a button-down (so-named because you can literally button your collar to the body of your shirt) instead.

Button-downs are generally less formal, so you can get away with undoing the top button of the shirt and leaving the tie loose.

It’s a great way to look put together but laid back all at the same time.

What can you wear over a shawl collar cardigan?

A Tweed Blazer

If you want to wear your shawl cardigan under a blazer, opt for one made from a hardy fabric like tweed or flannel.

Those kinds of heavier fabrics tend to look better with knitwear because they’re made from similarly natural fibers, which gives the whole outfit more coherence.

One advantage of rocking a shawl collar under jackets and blazers is that it allows you to skip the scarf, especially if you opt for one in a cozy fabric like cashmere or mereino wool.

When rocking this look, you have two options.

You can keep the shawl collar fully contained within the lapels or collar of your jacket, or you can splay it out over the top and let your sweater’s collar cover your coat’s.

Splaying the sweater collar out over the jacket’s lapels can look good in certain select instances.

But keep in mind that it runs the risk of looking like a warmer version of John Travolta’s character from Saturday Night Fever, which as a general life rule I wouldn’t recommend.

However, sometimes letting the collar dip over the jacket’s lapels gives a certain devil-may-care look that can totally work, so use your own discretion.

A Peacoat or Overcoat

Another classic way to wear a shawl collar is underneath a warmer winter jacket like a peacoat, under coat or even a chore coat.

I love this look because the two pieces complement each other so well.

Both are classic, versatile staples that look good on any man in any era, and both are fall staples that can get you all the way through winter when combined.

And trust me when I say I know—I live in Canada.

The shawl-collar-under-peacoat look is one of my absolute favourties, and has gotten me through many a Toronto winter in style.

More Resources ↓

More Men’s Style Advice from Irreverent Gent:

• 9 of the Sharpest, Most Stylish Types of Sweaters for Guys
• The Ultimate Guide to Men’s Fall Fashion
• The 8 Most Stylish Men’s Shirts Colors
• How to Wear a Shawl Collar Sweater
• In-Depth Naadam Cashmere Review
• The Best Men’s Boots to Wear with Jeans
• The 19 Most Stylish Pieces of Men’s Winter Fashion

Banner Photo:
Paramount Pictures/Warner Bros Pictures
Banner Illustration:
Irreverent Gent